“Parents are not interested in justice. They are interested in quiet.” – Bill Cosby
“We had a quicksand box in our backyard. I was an only child, eventually.” -- Steven Wright
“Adults are obsolete children.” – Dr. Seuss
“The most important time you can spend in the garden is the time you spend not gardening.” – Paul James
“You have to live life to love life, and you have to love life to live life. It’s a vicious circle.” -- Unknown
”In spite of the cost of living, it’s still popular.” – Kathleen Norris
THE GARDENER GUY’S Q&A
When I do personal appearances, the format is a simple Q&A. It’s more like a cheesy nightclub act than a traditional gardening lecture. But I like hearing what concerns gardeners most, and I like interacting with the audience. So here’s the online version of my live act. And by the way, the questions are pulled from emails you provide, so keep them coming. Just go to the “Comments / Contact Us” tab. I’ll update this page periodically.
Archive Q and A
The questions keep rolling in, and that’s great. In fact, there are so many that I can’t possibly answer them all, but I’ll keep trying. I have noticed that a number of questions being asked have already been answered, so for those of you who are new to the website, don’t forget to check out the archives. It’s possible the answer to your question can be found in a previous Q&A session.
And now on to the questions
August 5, 2009
Root Knot Nematodes
Erika from Florida has a problem with root knot nematodes. Actually, I should rephrase that. You see it’s Erika’s tomatoes that have the problem. And it’s a bad problem to have, especially on tomatoes.
First, consider growing resistant varieties but realize that they often lose their resistance within 10 to 20 years. You can identify resistant varieties by examining the tomato plant tags, which may include all or some of the letters V, F, N, and T, which indicate resistance to certain pathogens.
V stands for Verticillium
F stands for Fusarium
N stands for nematodes
T for tobacco mosaic virus
Obviously, you want to select varieties that include the letter N on the label. And currently, the most readily available nematode-resistant tomatoes include Pik Red, Celebrity, Baja, Better Boy, and Beefmaster. (I’m partial to Celebrity.)
Crop rotation is another way to control nematodes, although it’s difficult to practice in a small garden. However, corn isn’t bothered by the nematode, so it’s an alternative. And chances are if you planted corn for a few years straight in the same area, the nematodes would starve and you could go back to planting tomatoes.
Recent experiments have shown that soils rich in organic matter and amended with chicken litter seem to suppress nematode populations. And I know of one experiment in which the roots of tomato transplants were dipped in a solution of one tablespoon corn oil to one quart water before planting. Did it work? Yes…sort of anyway
Blossom-End Rot
Here’s another tomato problem, one faced by Andrea on the other side of the country, namely Chico, CA, where I can tell you people, especially young people, really know how to party.
Andrea’s tomatoes have large, rotten spots on their blossom ends, which describes a condition known as blossom-end rot. The underlying cause is a lack of calcium, but adding calcium to the soil rarely helps. The real culprits are planting too early (cold soils inhibit calcium uptake), rapid swings in soil moisture (soils that are too wet or too dry also slow calcium uptake), and excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer.
So Andrea, since you mentioned that you’re using a drip irrigation system, my guess is you’re delivering too much or too little water, and I’m guessing the latter is the case. Consider changing to an emitter that delivers more water, or water more often, and cover the bases of the tomato plants with a thick layer of mulch such as hay or straw. Do that, and the situation should take care of itself pretty quickly
By the Time I Get to Phoenix
Chris once lived in Phoenix, then moved to Tulsa, and is now back in Phoenix again. He wants some tips on creating a real desert garden.
First, realize that a well-designed xeriscape isn’t limited to rocks and cacti. Many are quite colorful and spectacular. And at the risk of seeming to be too self-serving to my sponsors, I must say that you’re best bet is to visit the High Country Gardens website at www.highcountrygardens.com. There you’ll find the largest and best selection of plants for your area, from annuals and perennials to trees and shrubs.
The Farmer’s Garden
Maureen Farmer has started a new website called, appropriately enough, The Farmer’s Garden (www.thefarmersgarden.com).
The idea behind the site is a simple as it is smart: it’s a place where people can post free classified ads to sell, trade, or give away their surplus garden produce. Registration is free, and required to post an ad, but you can search the classifieds without registering.
Great idea, Maureen!
(Okay, so that wasn’t really an answer to a question, but Maureen did ask whether I could help spread the word.)
Going Back to Houston
Jeanette, judging from the tone of her email, is freaking out about a willow oak that was professionally planted in her yard back in April. “It’s done nothing – I don’t know if it’s dead or alive!” she exclaims.
Relax, Jeannette. Give the tree a chance to recover from the shock of transplanting, and chances are it’ll be just fine. To confirm whether it’s dead or alive, just scrape a bit a bark from a branch with a knife. If you see green, it’s alive and well. If all you see is brown, however, you might want to call the service that planted it. Typically, tree-planting services offer a one-year guarantee.
Tiger Eyes Sumac
Steve doesn’t bother to mention where he’s from, but he does go into detail about his Tiger Eyes Sumac, which he says he transferred from a pot to a spot in the garden this year, and since hasn’t noticed much in the way of growth.
Fear not, Steve. Tiger Eyes Sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’ PPAF) was introduced in 2004 by Bailey Nurseries after an employee spotted the golden foliage on a green sumac several years earlier. It’s a fantastic plant, one that I grow myself, but it lacks the vigor of the more familiar Staghorn Sumac. In fact, mine are now in their third year and are just beginning to take off.
Tiger Eyes is hardy to Zone 4, thrives in poor soils (even clay if it drains well enough) and needs at least a half day of sun. Even under the best conditions, however, it’s a slow grower. It’s also a dwarf, topping out at around six-feet tall.
So just be patient, Steve. And take comfort in knowing that you’re growing one of the most beautiful shrubs ever!
(By the way, the PPAF in the official name of the plant means that it’s patented, so don’t propagate it or the plant police will put you in plant prison.)
Tiger Eyes Sumac
Bacteria for Ponds
Betty wants to know what kind of bacteria I add to my ponds to keep them clean and clear. And the answer, Betty, is several different strains.
But rather than bore you with the long-winded Latin names of the various strains, let me suggest that you find a pond-supply store in your area and follow their recommendations. There are dozens of different products on the market, but basically they’re all formulated to do the same thing: convert fish waste and other sludge first into nitrites, then nitrates (which can be absorbed by aquatic plants) and along the way reduce phosphorous levels, which limits algae growth.
I add the bacteria to my ponds once a week during the spring, summer, and fall. In winter, I stopped feeding my Koi so waste buildup isn’t an issue. However, there are bacteria that are adapted to cold-water conditions, although I’m not convinced they’re necessary.
If you have a filtration system, make sure you clean it once a week as well.
Where Am I?
Nadine and her husband have a bet concerning which state I live in, and there’s a prime rib dinner riding on it. He says Alabama, and she says farther west.
Well, Nadine, I suppose you’re right, although I don’t’ think it’s fair that your husband confined his answer to a specific state and you merely threw out an entire region covering a few dozen states.
I live in Oklahoma, and if you’d bothered to read the FAQ section of the website you’d have known that, and you could have bet on a lot more than a steak dinner.
August 26 Updated Q&A
Here’s another batch of answers to some interesting questions. If I haven’t gotten around to answering yours, be patient. And remember to tell me where you live, especially if you’re asking a question about a specific plant.
Soil pH
Andrew wants to know if it’s possible to test his soil pH with an inexpensive test kit, and the answer is yes. Although the readings won’t be nearly as accurate as those performed with fancy equipment in a lab, the cheap kits (some of which sell for just a few bucks) will at least give you an approximate idea of the relative acidity or alkalinity of your soil.
However, there are labs that will provide an extremely accurate pH test (as well as numerous other tests such as nutrient analyses) for just a few bucks as well. In fact, some tests are offered free. Check with your local cooperative extension service or master gardener’s office for information.
Finally, realize that although soil pH doesn’t ordinarily change too much over time, it is nevertheless an extremely important consideration that’s worth measuring every few years. If the pH is too high or too low, the plant may not be able to absorb certain nutrients even if they are plentiful. And of course, there are plants that require a fairly specific pH, particularly acid-loving plants such as azaleas and blueberries.
Red Mulch for Tomatoes
John writes from Ohio, and wonders if red mulch really does increase the yield of tomatoes. According to a considerable body of research, red mulch does indeed increase the yield by as much as 25%. I’ve used it myself, although unfortunately I didn’t actually conduct a test by using the mulch on one plant and no mulch on another plant of the same variety as a control. But what have you got to lose?
Salt in Compost?
Lance, who gardens in Maryland, submitted a question I’ve never been asked before, which is rare. He asks whether it’s okay to add salted water used to blanch vegetables (as well as the shells of salted peanuts) to the compost pile.
Well, Lance, I probably wouldn’t pour the salted water on the pile, but I wouldn’t hesitate to add the peanut shells. In high concentrations, salt is toxic not only to plants, but more importantly in your case it’s also deadly to all the critters that call compost home. The salted water could be used as an herbicide to kill weeds in pavement cracks and other places where you don’t intend to grow anything.
How About Weeds in Compost?
Carol from Pennsylvania has a related question regarding the addition of weeds to a compost pile, and my response is…it depends.
If the weeds don’t contain any seeds, then the roots and foliage will ultimately rot and therefore shouldn’t be a problem down the line, that is when you actually use the compost in the garden. However, I like to toss the weeds on top of the pile first so the sun bakes the roots and foliage. After a few days, I turn them into the pile.
If the weeds do contain seeds, then you have to be sure to turn and water the pile frequently – every week -- so that it gets good and hot, as in 160 degrees hot, which is the temperature at which most weed seeds are destroyed. I suggest you buy a compost thermometer to verify the temperature of the pile, and take readings in the center of the pile once a week. You’ll also need to be more careful about the proper mix of green stuff (nitrogen-based material) and brown stuff (carbon-based material) you add to the pile or it’ll never reach the 160-degree mark. The quickest way to generate more heat (beyond turning and watering) is to add green stuff such as grass clippings and kitchen scraps.
Hickory Bark for Orchids
Denise, an orchid lover from southern California, also has a question I’ve never been asked before: “Do you know where I can find pieces of hickory bark, specifically Mockernut hickory bark, for an epiphytic orchid I have?”
Carya tomentosa, the Mockernut hickory, is a common tree along the central portion of the east coast, and its wood is used to smoke various meats, in particular hams. I searched online for specialty orchid mixes that contain the bark, but to no avail. However, I found a number of sites that sell hickory wood for smoking, and you can buy pieces that still have the bark intact. Removing the bark is simple, and you can then break it into whatever size pieces you need. None of the sites specifically mention Mockernut hickory, but if you order from a supplier based in North or South Carolina, or perhaps even Virginia, chances are that’s what you’ll get.
Hosta Help
Jessie hails from Minnesota, and is wondering when would be the best time to divide some large hostas.
In a word, Jessie, spring. Despite their delicate appearance, hostas are rugged plants, so you needn’t worry too much about harming them in the process of digging and dividing. As new growth begins to appear, dig out the clumps, removing as large a root mass as possible. Separate the clumps with a sharp shovel or machete, and replant. A mature clump can easily be dividing into four smaller ones. Water well the first few weeks (but don’t overdo it) and apply a three-inch layer of mulch. That’s about all there is to it.
Splitting Headache from Splitting Hackberry
Vickie has a large hackberry in her Oklahoma yard with a giant split down the center of the trunk. She wonders what in the world she should do.
Well Vickie, judging from the photo, it’s no wonder your tree is splitting: There’s simply too much weight on either side of the trunk. Had you removed those large branches a few years back, chances are the tree never would have split.
So what can you do about it? Well first, you need to remove those lower branches to get rid of all that weight – the one that branches into two on the left and the one on the right. Then you need to cable at least two, maybe three of the branches about two-thirds of the way up the tree and tighten them with turnbuckles to close the split as much as possible. For both jobs, you’re going to need the services of a professional tree trimmer or an arborist, preferably one that’s certified. And chances are he or she will take one look at the tree and say you’re better off just cutting it down. Sorry. I know that’s not what you wanted to hear, but…
Japanese Beetles – Yuck!
Gail and others (hundreds of others, actually) want to know how to get rid of Japanese beetles. But before I answer, let me just say that it ain’t easy.
The adult beetles are extremely difficult to control. Neem, an all-natural insecticide made from the tropical Neem tree, does a decent job, but because it’s sold as an oil-based formulation, it may burn the leaves of your plants when temperatures are above 85 degrees, and sadly that’s the temperature at which the beetles are most active. Hand picking the beetles can be helpful, but it’s a tedious task. Traps can backfire by actually attracting more beetles than you would have had otherwise, but if you place them in a sunny spot well away from your plants, they can offer some control.
The easiest approach to the problem is to destroy the soil-dwelling larvae, not the adults, by using a bacteria sold under the name Milky Spore. It’s safe to use, easy to apply, and harmless to other critters. However, it takes time to work, and you’ll have to convince your neighbors to use it too or the beetles that emerge from their yards will ultimately fly into your yard.
Finally, you can apply a species of beneficial nematode that targets the grubs. When combined with Milky Spore, the nematodes provide a one-two punch for control of Japanese beetles. And by the way, there’s also a nematode species that targets flea larvae.
Milky Spore is often available at nurseries, but you may have to order the nematodes online. One good source is www.gardensalive.com.
Japanese Beetles
Microsoft® Encarta® Encyclopedia
Home Sweet Home
A number of you saw the show in which I said I was planning on moving, and wondered where I’d moved to. Well, I haven’t moved yet, although I’m still planning on doing so. My wife wants to wait until our daughter gets out of high school (Hannah’s a senior), and since Carrie almost always gets what she wants, that’s probably what we’ll do.
Basically, it’s time to downsize. Our house isn’t all that big, but it’s too big for two people. And to be honest, I’d like to downsize the garden as well. Two acres is a lot for one person to take care of, and I’m not getting any younger.
So where might we move? I’m not sure. We may stay in Tulsa, but we may try to find a place where it’s not too hot in the summer, not too cold in the winter, and where there are mountains to hike, rivers to fish, and great restaurants to enjoy. The area in and around Asheville, NC, is a possibility. Oregon is another. We’ll see.
