“Parents are not interested in justice. They are interested in quiet.” – Bill Cosby
“We had a quicksand box in our backyard. I was an only child, eventually.” -- Steven Wright
“Adults are obsolete children.” – Dr. Seuss
“The most important time you can spend in the garden is the time you spend not gardening.” – Paul James
“You have to live life to love life, and you have to love life to live life. It’s a vicious circle.” -- Unknown
”In spite of the cost of living, it’s still popular.” – Kathleen Norris
THE GARDENER GUY’S Q&A
When I do personal appearances, the format is a simple Q&A. It’s more like a cheesy nightclub act than a traditional gardening lecture. But I like hearing what concerns gardeners most, and I like interacting with the audience. So here’s the online version of my live act. And by the way, the questions are pulled from emails you provide, so keep them coming. Just go to the “Comments / Contact Us” tab. I’ll update this page weekly.
Archive Q and A
Q&A UPDATE For December
Sorry for the delay in responding to questions. I’ll try to be more prompt in the future. And by the way, folks, please remember to tell me where you garden (city or state or at least USDA Zone). Otherwise, I may not be able to accurately answer your question.
You Say Poinsettia…
Angela says my pronunciation of the ubiquitous holiday plant “hurts her ears.” She’s referring to the fact that I pronounce Poinsettia with only the “a” rather than the “ia” at the end. Well, here’s my take on the matter.
Although I try to strictly adhere to proper pronunciation, there are lots of words in the English language in which certain letters aren’t pronounced. Take the word gardening, for example. Who says “gar-den-ing” with equal and distinct emphasis on the second syllable? No one I know. The word flows off most tongues as “gard-ning.” In fact, there are a lot of people who refer to me in writing as “The Gardner Guy.”
And how about vegetable? Does anyone actually place any emphasis on the second “e,” as in “veg-et-able?” No, unless they want to sound like a pompous pedantic.
And consider this: While visiting the largest grower and breeder of Poinsettias in the world, I posed the pronunciation question to its fifth-generation owner, Paul Ecke, III. His response was along the lines of “whatever.”
So, Angela, I’m sorry that I made you ears hurt. I hope my response doesn’t break your heart.
Mistreated Maple
David in South Carolina describes a situation in which his newly purchased, 15-foot balled-and-burlapped (B&B) maple tree was abused prior to planting. It seems the tree was rolled on its rootball en route to the planting site, which caused the soil within the burlap to separate from the root mass. Now he wonders if the tree will be okay.
Assuming the soil was firmly packed around the roots at planting time, and assuming the roots didn’t dry out during the moving process, and assuming the tree was well watered after planting, and assuming the moon was in the Seventh House and Jupiter aligned with Mars, the tree should be fine. (Just kidding about that last assumption.)
Truth is, I often remove much of the soil from B&B trees to inspect the root system for girdling and to remove dead roots, and I they do just fine.
Azalea Envy
Brent in Georgia says he wants to have the best azaleas on the block, but isn’t sure how to go about realizing his goal.
The good news, Brent, is that azaleas really aren’t that tough to grow, but they do require some special consideration. The first has to do with soil. It must be fairly rich and it must drain well. A lot of azalea nuts actually replace half their native soil with peat moss at planting time, although I don’t recommend that practice. However, if your soil is heavy – as in clay – I would suggest you add a considerable amount of compost or shredded leaves before planting.
The soil must also be acidic. A pH of around 5 to 6 is great, and the best way to acidify soil is with sulfur, which is pretty cheap. Test the soil before planting, and add the sulfur as necessary, paying close attention to the recommended application rate on the package. Wait a week or so, and test again. Sulfur reacts pretty quickly so you should be able to plant soon after the pH drops to within the ideal range. And by the way, you can buy simple pH test kits, some of which are dirt cheap, to test your soil. They aren’t nearly as accurate as pH meters, but they’ll give you a good enough measurement.
Azaleas also need shade, especially in the south. Two hours of morning sun followed by shade the rest of the day is ideal. They also need regular watering, although it’s okay to let them dry out between waterings.
And finally, don’t prune azaleas until after they flower or you’ll wind up removing all the flower buds.
(Although I admire azaleas, I once described them as a plant that gives you two weeks of beauty and 50 weeks of blah. Needless to say, I got a lot of mail from the azalea fanatics of the world. And believe me, there are lots of them!)
Rain Barrel Dilemma
Lisa installed a rain barrel to collect precious rainwater. That’s the good news. The bad news is that Lisa’s house has asphalt shingles, and she wonders whether chemicals in the asphalt will contaminate the rainwater and affect her plants.
Interesting. And I must admit that I’ve never been asked that question before, so I did a little research, and here are my findings.
In short, the jury is still out on the potentially harmful effects of using rainwater collected from an asphalt-shingled roof on edible plants. Clearly, the concentration of contaminates (lead, zinc, and a long list of other chemicals) is low enough that they don’t harm ornamental plants that routinely get doused with rainwater falling off the roof. But we don’t eat ornamentals.
At this point, I suppose I would be inclined to err on the side of caution. Use the rainwater for container plants and ornamentals, but avoid using it to water edible plants.
Bamboo in Containers
Steve wants to know if there are any hardy bamboos he can grow in containers in Massachusetts, particularly those that would grow up to 20-feet tall.
And the answer is yes, but it’s a conditional yes. I’ve successfully grown a lot of bamboo in containers, but there are challenges. First, you need a good-sized pot. I use 24-inch plastic pots that even close up look like terra-cotta. They aren’t exactly cheap, but they’re rugged and much lighter than clay, although when filled with soil you’ll still need a dolly to move them. Plastic pots are also less likely to break as the rootball expands, which brings me to the next issue.
Botanically speaking, there are two basic types of bamboo – the leptomorphic types, which can spread aggressively and have (sadly) given bamboo a bad name, and the pachymorphic types, which have a clump-forming rootball. I love both, but in my experience the latter do better in containers. However, neither type will grow as tall in a container as in the ground. And in a container, the plant won’t be quite as hardy as it would be if it were grown in the ground simply because the container, regardless of what it’s made from, is more exposed to the elements.
Finally, given where you live, your choices are somewhat limited because most of the really tall bamboos aren’t hardy in your area.
So, having said all that, here’s what I suggest you try. Among the clump-forming bamboos, there are a number of beautiful species within the genus Fargesia. They are among the most cold hardy of all bamboos. Two of the hardiest of the lot are Fargesia murielae and Fargesia nitida, of which there are several named cultivars. Both are hardy to approximately minus 20-degrees Fahrenheit and both grow to between 12 and 15 feet.
There are also a number of beautiful species within the genus Bambusa, although they’re only hardy to 15 degrees. However, they can be overwintered indoors and treated as houseplants.
Among leptomorphic bamboos, those in the genus Phyllostachys are great, but you’ll need to prune the shoots each spring, leaving only three to five canes to grow or you’ll wind up with a large shrub rather than several tall canes. Phyllostachys vivax is a good choice, and it’s hardy to minus 5 degrees. Mine has produced canes as tall as 25 feet. You might also consider something from the genus Pseudosasa (see below).
Let me know what you decide.
Building a Bamboo Fly Rod
Doug in Kentucky has a question about bamboo as well. He wants to know which variety is best for making fly rods.
I’ll answer your question on one condition, Doug: you have to build a rod for me! I’ve always wanted a bamboo fly rod, but they’re super expensive. Cheap ones go for close to $2,000, and nice ones go for easily twice that. And collectors have been known to pay up to $15,000 for antique rods.
The most common bamboo used for making fly rods is Arundinaria amabilis, which is actually a synonym for Pseudosasa amabilis, sometimes called Tonkin cane. It’s prized for its density and straightness. It’s also easy to grow and would do fine in your neck of the woods (it’s hardy to at least 10-degrees Fahrenheit).
There are several online sources for bamboo plants, and most should have Pseudosasa amabilis. It’s pretty common, but keep in mind that it’s also leptomorphic.
Good luck, and keep me posted. Oh and by the way, I’m thinking along the lines of a seven-foot, two-piece rod. Make it a four weight.
Olives on Long Island?
Glenn wants to grow olive trees on Long Island, where winter temperatures can be much warmer than you might expect. In fact, some portions of the island are in Zone 7.
However, Glenn, I’m sorry to say that olives will not grow in your climate. Native to the Mediterranean, most olive trees are hardy only in Zones 10 and 11, although some varieties will survive as far north as Zone 8. Temperatures of 22-degrees Fahrenheit will kill the branches, and 15 degrees will kill the tree outright.
Sorry, dude. I wish I could grow them too.
Paul’s Pruning Picks
John in Pennsylvania says he goes through a pair of pruning shears every year, and asks which brand he should consider buying next year.
So, John, either you do a lot of pruning or you’re cheap. Or maybe both. Regardless, there are quality pruners out there. Consider those made by Corona, Fiskar, Felco, or Wolf-Garten, just to name a few of the better known manufacturers. A decent pair can be had for around $20, and the best will run you around $50. But if properly taken care of, they’ll last a lifetime.
Pine Needles in the Compost Pile
Randy from Tennessee has lots of pine needles, and is wondering whether it’s okay to put them in the compost pile.
Absolutely. Toss the cones in, too. But don’t overdo it with the needles, simply because the resin in them can take a while to break down. You might also consider using the needles as mulch. They’re a popular choice, particularly in the south, where you can buy them in bales.
Mulch for Roses
Donna wants to mulch her roses, but isn’t sure if one type of mulch is better than another.
Not really, Donna. Use whatever organic mulch you like. I prefer shredded bark mulch. It’s readily available, relatively inexpensive, doesn’t wash away too much in heavy rains, and it looks great. I suggest a two- to four-inch layer.
The Root of the Problem
Ronnie hails from Indiana, and he’s got a problem with a mature maple tree, whose roots are growing on and above the soil surface.
That’s a common problem, Ronnie, and unfortunately a lot of folks try to solve it by covering the roots with lots of soil, which is a recipe for potential disaster. Too much soil piled on the roots can actually “suffocate” the tree in a manner of speaking. Too little soil and the roots will eventually find their way back to the surface.
The best solutions are either a thick layer of mulch, which still allows for oxygen exchange, or some sort of ground cover, or even a combination of the two. One of the most rugged ground covers for your situation would be Liriope, whether planted alone or in combination with hostas and hardy ferns.
Nitrogen Source for Composting Leaves
Caroline is doing the right thing in the Garden State of New Jersey. She’s composting lots and lots of leaves. However, she needs an inexpensive source of nitrogen to hasten the process of decomposition since leaves are basically pure carbon. She’s tried blood meal. In fact, she bought 120 pounds of it at 85-cents per pound, but now she’s wondering whether urea would work just as well since it’s cheaper.
First, Caroline, congratulations on your endeavor. Leaves are an excellent soil amendment (my favorite, in fact) and a decent source of nutrients. But you really don’t need to add all that much nitrogen unless you’re in a big hurry to make compost. The leaves will slowly but surely decompose. Also, realize that nitrogen can come from other sources such as kitchen scraps and fresh grass clippings.
As to your question concerning how much blood meal you should add per bushel of leaves, I’d say just a half cup to a cup. Regarding the issue of urea, I would never use it. It’s synthetic, it’s made using natural gas, and it’s so “hot” (high in nitrogen, as in 46-0-0) that it’ll kill all the beneficial critters that transform organic matter into compost.
Moles and Voles
Chuck, who lives on Lake Texoma (on the border between Texas and Oklahoma (duh!)), has moles. Heather, who lives in North Carolina, has voles. Who would you rather be?
Well, Lake Texoma is nice, and it has some of the best striper fishing in the country. North Carolina is gorgeous, and has some great smallmouth streams. But here’s the deal: Moles don’t eat plants, whereas voles do. So although I’d rather fish for smallmouth over stripers, I’d rather deal with moles over voles.
However, you can control both furry critters with a granular repellent known as Chase, which is available at nurseries, online, and even in the orange or blue box stores. It’s pretty cheap, and a little goes a long way.
The all-natural ingredient in Chase that sends moles and voles elsewhere (such as your neighbor’s yard) is nothing more than castor oil. You can apply it by hand or with a spreader, and it lasts for up to 90 days unless you have heavy rains. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. It also repels gophers and armadillos, which are becoming more common along the Texas/Oklahoma border and can wreak havoc on in a garden.
On second thought, maybe I’d rather be in North Carolina.
Native Plants
Henry asks why I don’t focus more on native plants rather than aliens or non-natives or whatever you want to call them. And the answer is simple: I like all kinds of plants, and I don’t want to limit the palette of possibilities to only natives.
If I were to eliminate all the non-native plants from my garden, I’d be left with most of my trees (but precious few of my beloved conifers), most of my shrubs (but only species of Hydrangea), and a substantial number of perennials, but not much more. Oh, and I wouldn’t have a lawn either. Carried to the extreme, which is the direction a lot of native-only advocates like to go, I’d also have to get rid of nearly all my vegetables and herbs, save beans, corn, and squash.
Of course, I shy away from non-natives that are prone to becoming invasive, but I do likewise in the case of native plants. I suppose I just don’t get the reasoning behind growing only native plants. To me, it’s an unacceptable form of plant prejudice. After all, if a plant is well adapted to a particular region, has few if any pest or disease problems, isn’t invasive, doesn’t threaten the native ecosystem, and enhances the beauty of the garden, why not plant it?
Website Photos
Marsha in Virginia wants to know what kind of camera I use to take the pictures on the website. I use a Nikon DC90 digital SLR, but some of the pictures are also taken with a Canon EOS of similar quality. Both sell for under $1000 with two lenses, an extra battery, and a few other extras, but I’ve seen great pictures taken with cameras selling for much less, as in under $300. The beauty of the SLRs is that they have interchangeable lenses.
Taking the Heat
“Franky,” a gardener in Texas, wishes I’d include more information on heat tolerance when talking about plants.
Although heat tolerance is important, even critical in many cases, the information isn’t readily available. The American Horticultural Society has its Heat Zone Map, and it’s an excellent reference, but very few gardening books or online sources refer to their Heat Zones, opting instead to include only USDA Hardiness Zone information.
I think the issue has to do with consumer confusion. If plants were labeled with their USDA Zone, their AHS Heat Zone, and perhaps even their Sunset Microclimate Zone, people might become so perplexed that they might not bother to even buy them.
