“Parents are not interested in justice. They are interested in quiet.” – Bill Cosby
“We had a quicksand box in our backyard. I was an only child, eventually.” -- Steven Wright
“Adults are obsolete children.” – Dr. Seuss
“The most important time you can spend in the garden is the time you spend not gardening.” – Paul James
“You have to live life to love life, and you have to love life to live life. It’s a vicious circle.” -- Unknown
”In spite of the cost of living, it’s still popular.” – Kathleen Norris
THE GARDENER GUY’S Q&A
When I do personal appearances, the format is a simple Q&A. It’s more like a cheesy nightclub act than a traditional gardening lecture. But I like hearing what concerns gardeners most, and I like interacting with the audience. So here’s the online version of my live act. And by the way, the questions are pulled from emails you provide, so keep them coming. Just go to the “Comments / Contact Us” tab. I’ll update this page weekly.
Archive Q and A
Q&A UPDATE FOR 7-22-09
The questions just keep coming, and that’s great. Here are the latest that piqued my interest.
Itchin’ to Get Rid of Poison Ivy
Debbie (aka “Chickie”) of Brockton, MA, is overwhelmed by poison ivy and wants to know how to get rid of it.
There are several approaches to consider, Debbie. The first is to pull the vines out by the roots, which you say you’ve already done (and got the rash to prove it.) However, you can minimize the threat of exposure by wearing long-sleeves, gloves, and long pants. You can also head to your local pharmacy and buy something called Tecnu, which you rub on exposed skin. Tecnu prevents the oil in poison ivy (called urushiol) from actually getting on your skin. It’s used by foresters and others who work around poison ivy. You can also use it after exposure to remove the oil. Once you’re done pulling the vines, immediately strip and wash all the clothes you were wearing. Then take a cold shower (warm water can actually activate any oil that did get on exposed skin.)
If the vines are growing in and around existing plants, the situation gets trickier, and you may have no choice but to use a non-selective herbicide, meaning one that kills anything green, from poison ivy to your prized hydrangea. The question is, which herbicide?
Horticultural vinegar is available in several concentrations. The strongest contains a 20% solution of acetic acid. It will work, but it may require two or three applications, which increases your risk of exposure. It works best when it’s nice and hot outside. The only problem is finding a source for the stuff. Check with local nurseries first, but be prepared to order it online. There are several sites that offer it – just search for horticultural vinegar. Horticultural vinegar, which is all-natural, is not completely safe. It can burn the skin, and can cause severe damage if it gets in your eyes.
Burnout, another all-natural herbicide that contains clove oil and vinegar, is another option. I reviewed it in my May 15 Tip of the Week. It’s available from www.gardeners.com.
And finally, there are all sorts of synthetic herbicides that will control poison ivy, from glyphosate products to those containing 2,4-D, but I can’t in good conscience recommend that you use them.
To apply an herbicide to vines growing in and around plants, you’ll need a paint brush. Dip the brush in the herbicide and literally paint the leaf surfaces, doing your best to avoid touching the leaves of plants you don’t want to kill. It’s a painstaking process, but it’ll do the trick.
Tomato Hornworms
Jo Ann and her husband recently discovered hornworms on their tomatoes. Her husband decided to treat the problem with granulated Sevin (carbaryl), a synthetic pesticide that’s currently on the EPA’s hit list as a possible carcinogen, and is also acutely toxic to honeybees. Jo Ann now says she won’t eat the tomatoes, and I don’t blame her.
The easiest way to control tomato hornworms is to simply handpick them, and it takes less time than applying a pesticide. If you’re squeamish, use chopsticks or tweezers.
Funny Thing about Carrot Tops
Captain Jach wants to know if it’s okay to eat carrot tops. He’s heard they may be poisonous, and at the very least may cause diarrhea.
Carrot tops do contain alkaloids that some people might be allergic to, and eating a giant bowl full of them just might make you sick. But for the most part, carrot tops are perfectly edible and nutritious. However, they can be somewhat bitter. I’ve eaten them for years on salads, and I’ve never experienced any ill effects. So it’s like anything else I suppose – moderation is the key.
Tomato Hornworm
War on Artillery Fungus
Both Iris in New Jersey and Lynda, who doesn’t say where she lives, have a problem with artillery fungus. And neither of them are going to like what I’m about to say.
Artillery fungus, also known as shotgun fungus, thrives in bark mulch throughout much of the United States, but is especially prevalent in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. It shoots its spores up to 20 feet, and they often land on the sides of houses. The spores “cement” themselves to wood and vinyl siding, and they’re next to impossible to remove.
At the moment, there’s no known fungicide that’s effective against the fungus. The only real solution is to get rid of the wood mulch (and an inch or two of the topsoil) and replace it with stone or possibly a mulch made up of compost mixed with shredded leaves.
As for getting the spores off your house, the news is even worse. I don’t know of a single method that will remove them.
Fruit Trees in Indiana
Brenda wants to grow dwarf fruit trees in Indiana, in particular Granny Smith apples and Bing cherries.
Well Brenda, Granny Smith apples should do just fine in your area, but it does take two to tango. In other words, you’ll need a pollinator such as Red or Golden Delicious or Rome. And yes, Granny Smith’s are available as dwarfs.
As for the cherries, you’ll need to pick a variety other than Bing, which isn’t well adapted to life in Indiana. There are a number of dwarf and semi-dwarf sweet cherries to choose, and they too will require a pollinator.
A great source for fruit trees is www.starkbros.com. They offer fruit trees in sizes ranging from miniature to standard, and they recommend specific pollinators for those that require one.
A Word on Weed Fabric
Diane wants my take on weed fabrics, and I’m happy to oblige.
Frankly, I have a love/hate relationship with the stuff. I love to use it in areas where I never plan on doing any gardening, namely paths. I just lay it down and cover it with mulch or gravel or stone. But in the garden, I hate the stuff. It does what it’s supposed to do, that is control weeds, but every time you dig a hole or cultivate you often wind up hitting the fabric with whatever tool you’re using. If you want to plant anything in the bed, you have to remove the mulch and cut the fabric. To me, it’s a pain. But you may find that it works well for you.
I prefer to simply add a thick layer of mulch – three to four inches – to control weeds. It’s not a foolproof approach, because weed seeds can germinate even in the mulch, but weeds are a fact of life for gardeners.
That's all for now. Keep your questions coming.
